Reddit bouldering training plan. Consistency over a longer period of time is going to do more for you than a 12 week “program” good training plans for intermediate boulder climber? hi everyone, i've been climbing for maybe 8 (9?) years but only got to climb consistently (several times a week) for the past year and a half. Any resources or training plans that ya'll like to use or reference when training? I've currently hit a plateau and am looking at implementing a routine to boost my problem areas and get stronger. I'm limited to only around 2 sessions Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'd love to have some feedback about the volume and intensity since it's my first real cycle. I tend to do the bouldering the day before the resistance training so that I can climb with minimal fatigue. Sport climbing indoor can climb up to 6b+ and outdoor can lead most 6a, maxed out at 6a+. V6- v8 grade range. The hardest thing to train in a climbers body is finger strength. You can get very strong just bouldering 2-3x per week, it will build very good core and pulling strength in addition to the obvious grip strength. This was my first taste of structured training and properly working on my weakness. These are my current stats/my routine on the hangboard, which i do 2 times per week: 10 pull ups on jugs (this is the max amount i can do lol) 3 sets 20 sec warm up hang on 15mm 7 sets 10 sec hang on 10 IMO climbing training templates (because they’re not plans and they’re not personalized) are largely useless. How to plan your climbing training at home or in the gym or on the wall. Hardcore plateaud at V3. I am creating a training plan to help with my chronic bicep tendonopathy due to overuse. 12 week cycle with lattice training I just completed my first cycle of training with lattice. I read through the training book/guide written by Carlos Tkacz which is what this plan is based on. Pick one day to project, one day to climb a lot of moderately hard boulders, and do so supplemental strength training. I like to boulder 2-3 times a week and I want to start incorporating a routine weekly workout in my schedule for days that I’m not climbing (or also maybe days I do climb). 3 weeks strength, (maximal boulders, max hang/min edge finger board and weighted pull ups), 2 weeks power endurance (boulder 4x4s, short duration repeaters, body weight pull ups with Reddit's rock climbing training community. Keep in mind that indoor bouldering is not the most pandemic-friendly sport - you spend a lot of time touching things that other people just touched. I especially love Moonboard climbing and am currently at around 10 V3 benchmarks. Free climbing training programs available for download as a supplement to the book Training For Climbing by Eric Horst. Training for climbing is generally understood as training for sport climbing, and so bouldering typically gets shoveled in as an adjunct endeavor to prepare you for clipping the chains. I usually mix 2 bouldering sessions a week with gym workouts in between, but wanting to know best sort of workouts that will compliment climbing. [3 days per week throughout same workout for each phase] 4 weeks high volume (routes/boulders at submaximal for 300meters). Finger board 4 easy to medium boulder problems Project hard limit climb (s) (1 or 2 problems about 4 attempts each) Lots of medium climbs/technique climbs I have to work on. 12c) and boulderer-for-training (V4-6), climbing for 9 years. Likewise, I always leave at least 1-2 hours between bouldering and stretching. e. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. Learn about gear, nutrition, hangboarding, on-the-wall workouts, and more! The autumn bouldering season begins soon, and I'm not sure how to best structure my next cycle of training. It will also track your progress on each exercise, and it has a few assessment tools to measure up how you're performing. Does anyone have any drills/exercises, on or off the wall, they they believed really helped with power generation and feeling stronger on the wall? 67 votes, 58 comments. Less hangboard, more wall. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Customised climbing training plans written by expert coaches and focused on your goals. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 167K subscribers in the climbharder community. Looking to enhance your bouldering strength and technique? Explore tailored training plans designed to improve your climbing endurance, power, and flexibility. Ive been climbing 3 to 4 days a week for two years. Shoulder External Rotation to a Pull-Apart Exercise. g. That's a tough sell for beginners because a training cycle will be 12 weeks, so more time than you've already been climbing, As a bouldering newbie who is brand spankin' new to the sport (zero climbing experience, still learning the climbing lingo, and learning how to do V0s), I was looking for some kind of training Training Plan for Improving at Bouldering that doesn't take 25 eons to work I got into climbing around two years ago. How to Structure Winter Bouldering Gym Training TLDR; I like 4x4’s but I want to know how often or how else I can improve power endurance for 100’ 5. (I. My training has gone through loads of changes but here’s what my week looks like at the moment : 85% weighted pull ups once or twice Finger curls hypertrophy three times Finger training once (either with a crimp block lifting weights or on a hangboard, whatever works for you) Loads of yoga and mobility training, almost every Someone in a thread yesterday mentioned that they train “mostly volume” as per Steven Low I recently moved and find myself in a situation conducive to this style of training. I did the bouldering plan and had done some fingerboarding and weighted pull ups before. For boulderers, trad, and sport climbers at a range of abilities. Change up what climbs you project and use for volume. And then 1. Whether you're a weekend warrior or aspiring athlete, these structured programs will help you achieve your goals. Outdoors is rock/projects. However, some users suggest incorporating additional exercises or routines to complement the climbing experience and achieve a more complete workout. 382K subscribers in the bouldering community. Im decently strong on crimps but am pretty terrible with pull ups and explosive movement. In 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. I train 3 days on, one day off, and i just maintain a sequence based on my outdoor climbing. Prior to this, my sessions just consisted of climbing whatever seemed interesting, after some light stretches as warmup. Ideally I would like to spend all time training outside on actual boulders rather than doing gym stuff. My routine atm is to climb 3 times a week (only indoors), with a day break in between and 2 days Here's my current training plan for May-September when I can climb outside regularly. I love limit bouldering and until recently thats essentially all I did. The plan just helped me structure the above far better with progressive overload built into the plan. Can someone critique this detailed training plan for bouldering and general health? My primary goal is climbing strength while still balancing general health. 13 votes, 64 comments. I'm 39, and would never go for your program immediately followed by bouldering (my pre-fatigue exercises before bouldering are just pull-ups and push-ups). Was originally planning to periodise my training in a 3 weeks on 1 week off cycle, and do a couple of those, so 8 weeks in total. Training plan insights - How can I optimize my first year of climbing? What would you have done differently if you could start over? (Bouldering V5/V6 @ 6 months) Bouldering is often a an anaerobic activity, training endurance will help minimally compared to taking proper rest and getting ur beta and technique down. Training Plan for Improving at Bouldering that doesn't take 25 eons to work I got into climbing around two years ago. I'm climbing for 1y and 2 moths. More isn't better necessarily, most high end training even for endurance has started to To add my own 2 cents: Bouldering is a great workout. Climbing drill (s) Circuit wall Reddit's rock climbing training community. I usually do a small strength training routine after climbing sessions, and one on off days. I’ve worked full time as a sports performance coach for endurance and mountain athletes for the last 17 years. Hi guys, basically been bouldering coming up to a year now and want to make my training a bit more climbing specific. Couple words about me. Sun: Projecting boulders outdoors (mostly on crimpy steep limestone) Mon: ARCing (2x 20 mins climbing, 10-20 degrees overhanging, keeping pump below 6/10) & Core exercises Tues: Rest day, stretching Wed: short max Hangs session in the morning. A routine like that also gives you an effective rest day on your skin so you can really attack those sloper heavy routes on your boulder days, or do a training session after a sloper day to recover your skin. I did the 12 week boulder plan. Even those who don't care at all about performance on boulders. Background: serious about training this off season in order to meet Supplemental training: Outside of climbing, I don’t really do much supplemental training. Looking for some constructive criticism on my training plan for pushing my bouldering and sport climbing grades. ) is another area that would probably be useful. Don't fuzz about having to do x amount of Vsomething and y The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique read a lot, liked this the most. The cross-training/weight training stuff is pretty standardized in the weights and fitness world, all he's done is packaged it in a context relevant to climbers. I consider upper body strength to be one of my biggest weaknesses (I can’t really campus anything all, only can do ~4-5 pull-ups), so 3X/week after climbing I’ll do a simple pull-up progression routine. These may include functional strength training, antagonist training, and Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to Creating 1st training plan for bouldering Hello, I'm looking for some help in creating plan. My training days are broken into 4 areas: strength, long-endurance (aerobic/general), short-endurance (power endurance), and bouldering/technique. At last, a comprehensive training plan from professional climbing coach Neil Gresham. Hello fellow climbers! I've been climbing for about 9 months now and only recently I've started following a more structured training plan. Anecdotal but the strongest sport climbers I know just boulder in the gym then work some endurance in before the outdoor season. Re: imbalances and antagonist training, have you looked at the Crimpd app by Lattice? Here’s the thing. Fancy definitions aside periodization is a way to set up your training to maximize your gains and avoid plateaus and overuse injuries. I have some lifting/calisthenic background (I'm able to do one armer and front lever). 1. Dedicated to increasing all our Reddit's rock climbing training community. I go bouldering every second day for 40min to 1h30. It also focused me on flexibility and stamina, things I never otherwise would have trained. Louis Parkinson Training Plan For Bouldering Strength - Part I (Warm up + Finger strength exercises) Reddit's rock climbing training community. I've been bouldering for the last year and a half or so, but I want to start taking training more seriously and really improve my climbing. Obviously you will progress faster if you take a more targeted approach to training than just Have you looked into the Power Company training plan for Boulder Strong? Your plan is pretty similar to that one (which I'm about to start in a week or two). I plan on regularly campusing boulders, as well as doing on + off wall lock off training, but am nervous I am pigeonholing myself. though i started with sport climbing, i soon dedicated myself to bouldering. Here's the classic 4-3-2-1. light weight many repetitions etc) I have trained Calisthenics in the past also to note so pull up variations and The main direct benefit I've been getting from the routine is exposure to submax training in the 3fd position, which i was very weak and uncomfortable using it on the wall. Monday: hard boulder project. since then i haven't really been able to get out as I'm just about to start taking my climbing (bouldering in particular) seriously. Magnus Midtbø's Blueprint rock climbing course would help me bouldering over collecting bits and scraps from free YouTube videos? If you just go in, climb, and leave with no plan you'll definitely progress much more slowly than you would with a plan that dictates volume, difficulty, etc. I've never done dedicated training for any sport before, so I don't really know what I'm doing. This is a routine that I feel may work for me but I would love to hear other opinions. In case it’s useful: 40 (AFAB), 5’3” w/0 index 105-110lbs, sport climber (5. more of a power endurance focus with 8-12 moves for 5-6 attempts 15 - 30 minutes rest in between goes. On climbing days I do pull ups, hangboard, a rowing exercise, shoulder press, lateral raises, dips, various core exercises and stretching after. It will build muscle, and it will burn calories (although weight loss is won in the kitchen). I've been climbing for 4 years now and use to just go into the gym to project and saw consistent results. 10 Gunks trad climbs using only a grade-less bouldering gym. I'll take anything: it could be as broad as a one-liner training philosophy or as detailed as a full plan with time "Learning by doing", i. I won a lattice plan on their Instagram page two years ago. Seeking for advise to maximize my climbing days. It's absolutely the best way to get stronger but not a great transition to climbing when you get long seasons of conditions Based on your phrasing and planning (what Hi r/climbharder! I want to keep making consistent progress in bouldering without sacrificing the fun or social elements to it, and I need a routine that works with my ADHD. fingerboard after a session rather than before), or the volume I am doing things. I spend countless hours scouring forums and I'd love to hear about your training plan however much you're willing to share. 5-2 hours on Wednesday, training climbing as per Louis Parkinsons recommendations. As for why cross-training is relevant, think of it like this. I spend countless hours scouring forums and sites for information on how to improve that wouldn't cost me my left nut. I currently am climbing somewhere around V3-v4. Non periodized means no standard peak phase. My stats Climbing for 2 years (~6month gap due to COVID) Male, 65kg, 173cm (5ft 7”), Hardest grade climbed in bouldering We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It has some good exercises but it's up to you to make your plan unless you want to pay a premium or use one of their pre-made training plans. during my peak 6 months ago, i was climbing exclusively outdoors (2-3 times a week) and did some weight training. I How to mix the full body workouts with bouldering? submitted 46 minutes ago by Nasuraki So i recently started the Recommended Routine (details below) originally thinking i would drop in as a substitute for when it was raining or very cold and i couldn’t go bouldering. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CRITIQUE!! Whether it be the order I do things (e. There are definitely ways to stay in very strong climbing shape even w/o the normal access. I have no ego here, so feel free to tell me I'm way off base or give me suggestions for ways to improve my routine! 1. There isn’t much available content out there for people interested in pushing themselves on the small rocks. Quickly came to realise that this would leave me around the first week of October, which is further into the season then I want to be, since in a perfect Hey friends, My names Kyle. I like it for hangboarding in particular because of its timer. I specialize in programming strength plans for ultra runners, alpine climbers and indoor I'm a 26 year old male. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to Would love some perspectives here and open to fully embracing limit bouldering if there’s a good case for it. I train full body (RR or BWSF) twice per week, and boulder twice per week as well. Detailed tips for beginners and advanced, also for bouldering. Training Plan (Per week): Day 1: Warm-up: Stretches, mobility exercises (shoulder and hips), light climbing for a total of 15 mins Hangboarding: 5 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off, with 4 different grip positions Bouldering: Spend 1 hour working on V4 problems Cool-down: stretching Day 2: Im trying to consistently train and want to build a training plan for crimps and pull-ups. Hey all, 27F trad climber here with a make it a little simpler. A couple thoughts: I would make sure that you aren't totally wrecked for the Look up a training plan from the Rock Warrior Prodigy training program or Lattice. Can project quite a few V5s but with better success of slab than overhang. My plan is to go to the bouldering gym 2 or 3 times a week and then to lift once a week. It has only a few hard boulders and an adjustable kilter board, so I’ve been mainly climbing volume on the kilter board in my sessions since I moved here. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. The home of Climbing on reddit. Working on weak areas (finger strength, back strength, antagonist muscle training, etc. I think that's pretty well established. If you’ve been bouldering regularly & are looking to take your bouldering to the next level, this guide to bouldering training is for you. I’ve searched previous posts about it and I’m still on the fence. Namely, small gym , not very close to outdoor climbs. And yes we are scared of falling. Cordless and proud. It's about having a balance between doing a variety of styles across the grade spectrum, and spending time really climb hard. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Bouldering is no doubt an essential part of a good sport climbing program, Redditors generally agree that bouldering can be a great workout for overall strength, particularly targeting the back, shoulders, and core muscles. 5-2 hours on Monday, just climbing to the best of my ability. Other than my upper body strength, I’m sure I could benefit from improved general Projecting for a little System board circuit (maintain endurance) Lock off training (I climb very dynamically and want to work on being static) Weighted pull-ups (tire out my shoulders and general fitness) Thursday Rest Day Friday Warm up Bouldering for fun/with friends Bouldering 4x4’s TRX Cor routine Saturday Sunday Boulder for fun/with friends The point of the bouldering/route pyramid is remind yourself not to get locked into either projecting grade super-hard all the time OR just going around doing easy/flashable/1-2try problems. A Guide to Periodization for Climbing (avoiding plataeus and overtraining) Periodization - the application of planned phase changes and cycles in training to drive physical and metabolic change while reducing the likelyhood of overtraining. This program guides you through the entire year and everyone can do it regardless of age, ability or experience. I have been on and off indoor bouldering for the past few years and slowly progressed to a point where I can flash 6a/6b and after some effort get 6c/6c+ routes in my gym. Not necessarily because he's the best, his ethos just seems to make sense to me. I guess you can wash your hands a lot and avoid touching your face. If what you really want is a structured training plan, get a coach. Typically in sports with competition dates you'd gradually move from base phase into a more specific phase, deloading before a peak and the starting the cycle again. 5-2 hours on Here are my questions: - What periodization scheme would be the most effective for training bouldering? Would it be effective to follow training energy systems, or should I just continue to "train on the wall" through doing lots of mileage on the wall? - What drills are that I could implement for board climbing to improve upon technique? Complete beginner's guide to bouldering training. Stuck on tough bouldering moves? Discover how to start strength and power training to enhance your climbing skills and boost your confidence. I am learning that I really should schedule two rest days after hard sessions and do some very focused recovery on my next week of sessions are ruined by my tendons complaining. I would really like to push to 7a and consider training for the This is the rough plan I have written up for my plan to go from averaging 6b bouldering, aiming for 7a. just bouldering is probably the best practice, but since I only boulder maximum once a week, I'd like to support my body with a couple of training routines I can do So i recently started the Recommended Routine (details below) originally thinking i would drop in as a substitute for when it was raining or very cold and i couldn’t go bouldering. The people I know who progress pretty quickly at lower grades on rope split time between bouldering and roped climbing-- progressively shifting towards more bouldering as a percentage of training as their roped climbing grades have gone up. My basic training outline for bouldering training session: Warm up stretches (or 5-10 min on rowing machine) Warm up traverse 1 easy warm up boulder to "wake up" fingers. For reference, in 2023 I went three times a week and did a regular push/pull/legs&abs routine. Consider some periodization. I was wondering if any of you can share your lifting routines to complement your bouldering routines. Atm I'm climbing around a V5/56 level, I know this because 6C+ benchmark is the hardest grade I've gotten on the moonboard. My plan is as follows: 1. There is definitely some good in sport climbing in the gym if you need to work on clipping and lead head but if you have a solid base in that then bouldering, power endurance and then some base aerobic training should be more than enough. At the moment, bouldering indoor can flash most problems V4s or lower. The following three exercises warm up I'm around 1,5 years into bouldering and recently wrote a training plan. stats: height: 5'7 + 6 ape weight: 135lbs hardest indoor & outdoor send: V8in & V7out i've been climbing for almost a year and a half now, but i haven't noticed any change in grade or technique over the past 6 months. fsalz beymz ktbvf jcjba bsush izqrtz zct kphrd bapgiu didcyt