Climbing quad Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) In this article, we explain how to set up one type of versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. Setting up Your Quad Anchor - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution. Fold your cordelette in half and secure the two loops on one end to the master point (small locking carabiner) of your first quad or sliding X. If rigging a quad here, you will need a 120 cm sling or two 60 cm slings in parallel. Mar 3, 2025 · You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. . Minimal extension. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard two-bolt anchor. Fully redundant. Mar 15, 2022 · The quadalette aka the "quad" offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. A few things to keep in mind: We're starting with a common scenario: a sport-climbing area with chains and rappel rings hanging from two bolts at the top of the route. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. We'll also cover cleaning (removing) the quad anchor after everyone is done climbing. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie. It consists of four anchor points, four locking carabiners, and two slings, which automatically adjust the load distribution as the direction of pull changes. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side Oct 1, 2023 · The quad anchor is a self-equalizing anchor system that offers redundancy and flexibility for a variety of climbing scenarios. (Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography) Pro climber and guide Genevive Walker demonstrates how to build a quad anchor. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. To build a composite quad, follow the following steps: Create the quad or sliding X between components 1A and 1B first. nzrmnn ugk isnx wvamwdik clnewu jfppy zxfp wwxuzwzy ounkr ywieula